Ouzo Capital of the World
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 Forty-two kilometers from
Mytilini on the southern coast
of Lesvos, Plomari, the
ouzo
capital of Greece, is built amphitheatrically near the
sea and is the second largest
town on the island after Mytilini. This is
where the famous Barbayiannis
Ouzo comes from as well as
several other smaller labels
like the excellent Ouzo
Giannatsi, both distilled
in the traditional
method.
Whether it's from drinking the
extra strong ouzo that many of
the inhabitants seem to favor
or for some other reason,
Plomarian's have the
reputation of being a little
bit crazy and enjoying life to
its fullest. The women of
Plomari have the reputation of
being a bit stubborn or to put
it in better terms
strong-willed, as this child's
rhyme which was taught to me
by my wife's cousin
implies:
Stin Agiassou y Plomari
Oute yeneka
Oute mulari
(Translation:From Agiassou or
Plomari neither woman nor
mule). |
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 Even though I actually received an
e-mail from a knowledgeable and
well-intentioned gentleman from
Plomari telling me that by
publishing this slanderous little
poem I had insulted the village
and actually caused a drop in
tourism with more cancellations
coming in daily, I tend to think
he over-reacted or even
misinterpreted the little song
which could actually be seen as
complimentary to the women of
Plomari. Because after all who
wants a weak-willed woman except
for temporary purposes? On the
contrary I think that publishing
the song points out that the women
of Plomari are indeed something
special and any man looking for a
wife as an
equal partner
might do well to begin his search
here where the women are also as
attractive as the
architecture.
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 There are several ouzo factories
and also the Barbayiannis ouzo
museum on the road leading into
town and it is obvious that the
people of Plomari take great pride
in their ouzo. None seem to have taken
a greater pride then George
Kabarnos and his son who bought the traditional
distillary of the famous (in
Plomari) Ouzo Giannatsi. While
many of the other ouzo companies
have sold out to the big companies
and perhaps sacrificed some of
their traditional methods in order
to keep up with demand, Mr.
Kabarnos still used the old wood
burning kasani (still) up to a few years ago when demand made it impossible to keep up without using some modern methods. His shop
used to be in the main market area of
the town but has moved to the hills above the city on the road to Melinda where you can drop in and get a short tour and buy a couple bottles or a case or two of their excellent ouzo. And where else can you
get a lesson (in English or Greek)
on what makes one ouzo better than
another and why distilled ouzo is
the healthiest. The hard work of Mr Kabarnos has paid off and you can not only find Ouzo Giannatsi in most of the cafeneons and restaurants of Lesvos but even some of the best mezedopoulions and ouzeries of Athens now carry his brand. For more on Ouzo Giannatsi and
Ouzo in general
see my Lesvos Ouzo Page
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 The architecture of the town is pretty amazing with giant old
mansions and decaying factories,
olive presses and tanneries
amongst the houses of all
different size shapes and colors.
The town itself straddles each
side of a ravine which in the
rainy season turns into the
Sedountas river. Some of the
houses are built right on the
river and their walls form the
banks, keeping the flow contained
and moving down towards the sea.
While Plomari is impressive in the
summer it must be a spectacular
place when the river is rushing
down the mountain. Plomari was originally up in the
mountains where the beautiful
village of Megalohori now stands.
Both the mountain village and the
port were destroyed by fires from
1841 to 1843, after which the city
we now know as Plomari was built
and became an important center for
industry and commerce. There are a
number of Turkish fountains in the
village as well as many houses
with the Turkish-style
architecture and if you come here
on a cool day you can spend hours
walking around looking at the
different buildings in the various
neighborhoods. Sometimes Plomari
reminds me of Venice without the
water.
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 If it is a hot day there are nice
beaches in Plomari and also at Agios Isidoros which is
one of the best areas on the
island for swimming with a mixture
of sand and a stone shelf and open
sea. Agios Isidoros is actually
the area where most of the hotels
are located, including the
Greek-American owned
Hotel Pebble Beach
which is right on the water and
within walking distance of town where we stayed on our last overnight visit. Lately we have been visiting Plomari on daytrips from Vatera or a sidetrip when we explore the Gulf of Gera because it is such an exceptional place to swim. The snorkeling off the coast of
Agios Isidoros is very interesting
because of the rock formations
which are like undersea platforms
that are full of sea-life and the sea is such a spectacular color of blue that postcard makers don't even have to touch them up.
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There are some great restaurants
in town and of course many
cafeneons which serve ouzo and
mezedes to the young and old men
of the village as well as the
occasional tourist. The main area
for eating is around the large
Platanos across the bridge over
the river. There are several
churches of interest in the area
including Agios Nikolaos, near the
market, with it's interesting
icons of Saint Demetrios and the
Archangels Michael and Gabriel.
The church of Agia Paraskevis is
also lovely with it's iconostasis
of white marble. Plomari has a hardbor
full of fishing boats and pleasure craft and people prominade
down the sidewalks and the coastal road in the early evening.
Take a peak inside this cafeneon on the waterfront. It is one
of the best in Lesvos. The town has an active marketplace
and it's inhabitants are known for
their high level of culture,
distinguished as sailors and
active nationally.
There
are several cultural centers
including the old soap factory
which has been restored and the
building which houses the Benjamin
of Lesvos cultural society. There
is a large number of Greeks who
have returned from abroad and
English is widely spoken with a
variety of interesting accents. It
is hard to imagine a town which
combines the traditional Greek
culture with that of our
contemporary society as
comfortably as Plomari does.
Combine this with the architecture
and Plomari is as interesting a
town as Corfu or Hermioupolis in
Syros. Among the Greek Americans, Canadians
and Australians living in Plomari are the family who own the
Hotel Pebble Beach.
Places to Visit Near Plomari
 The
mountain roads in the area are
enjoyable to drive on if you are
the type who likes to drive and
the people in your car are the
type who like to look at
spectacular scenary and views
while you are driving. There are several beaches that can be reached by dirt road and the popular beach of Tarti too. Ten Kilometers north is the
village of Megalochori formerly
the site of Plomari and now known
as the Switzerland of Lesvos
because of it's high altitude,
healthy climate, orchards and
abundant water. There is a
beautiful platia with several
restaurants and cafeneons. The
town has a number of
Greek-Americans, Greek-Australians
and Greek-Africans, some who have
come for the summer and others who
have returned to their ancestral
home to live for the rest of their
lives. The Platia has an old
Platanos that died many years ago
but has now been turned into some
kind of shrine. Just beyond the tree is an old
church in a beautiful flower
filled courtyard that should not
be missed.
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 There is a dirt road
that leads from Megalohori
to
Agiassou
which I don't advise using unless
you have a jeep. But should you
decide to take the trip it is a
journey through forests of olives
and chestnuts and a large area
which had burned several years ago
and even destroyed several of the
houses on the outskirts of
Megalohori.
The beach town of Melinda is between Plomari and Vatera and there are a cuple good fish tavernas here. If you continue look for the signs for the Panagia Krifti (Hidden Madonna), a beautiful little church built in the rocks overlooking the sea and a hot spring. You can
explore the area and swim by day
and spend your evenings in one of
the most interesting towns on
Lesvos. Whether you like ouzo or old
buildings or not, Plomari is well
worth a visit and it is a great
place to base yourself from to see
this part of the island. If you are coming for the day try to get here in the morning or in the late afternoon when people come out and start to fill the cafes after their afternoon naps. And if you are coming from Mytilini keep your eyes on the road which is very winding and the Greek drivers love to take wide turns.
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Hotels in Plomari
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 Besides the above mentioned Hotel Pebble Beach there are a number of nice hotels and self catering apartments in Plomari. Located by on the beach of Agios Isidoros, Pano sto Kyma offers self-catered accommodation with open sea views. Outdoor seating areas are available, and shady trees line the beachfront and surround the hotel. Situated on the hillside right above Ammoudeli Beach in Plomari, the family-run Irini Studios & Apartments offers self-catered accommodation with free Wi-Fi. All units feature a spacious, furnished balcony overlooking the Aegean Sea. The stone-built Elia Village offers traditional accommodation surrounded by olive groves, just 50 metres from Agios Isidoros Beach. It has a swimming pool with sun beds and umbrellas and a poolside bar. It is a bit of a trek into Plomari so you will need a car. Sea Sun is located in Agia Varvara of Plomari, only 50 metres from the seafront and 100 metres from Agios Isidoros Beach. The complex offers a swimming pool, children’s pool, a beautiful garden and free parking. Just 150 metres from the white-pebbled Agios Isidoros beach, Vicky Hotel consists of 2 buildings. It features an outdoor swimming pool and balconies with sea views. Free Wi-Fi and wired internet is available throughout. Only steps from Agios Isidoros Beach, family-run Akrogiali Hotel features studios with direct access to the garden and a furnished patio overlooking the Aegean Sea and Asia Minor coast. It offers a snack bar and free bicycles. You can find more hotels and apartments on Booking.com's Plomari Page
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Plomari Ouzo Festival
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 The Municipality of Lesvos, the Cultural Association of Plomari “Polion” and Lesvos Distilleries Association, organize an event dedicated to ouzo titled “Traditional Culture of Ouzo”, at the Plomari marina on 4th and 5th of August 2012.
The two-day event includes presentations from specialists and distinguished lecturers regarding the historical and traditional ouzo paths in making and commercializing it, as well as its contribution in social relations. Lesvos island products, photographs and traditional material from the Lesvos Distilleries will be exhibited. Also, well known traditional music and dancing groups will participate in this event.
Traditional “ouzo meze” (finger food) will be sold by Lesvos Women Agro- cultural Associations.
Ouzo, which is the essential companion of friends gatherings, and contributes in the tightening of social nets, will be offered free of charge by Lesvos distilleries and at the same time they will present their products.
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