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Agiassos, Lesvos
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The worshippers come into the monk cells and the church enclosure, many of them having spent 15 days waiting outside. Many still walk from all over the island to give offerings to the icon. After the service the icon is paraded around with great pomp. The festival also attracts many merchants and there is a great deal of celebration in the nightspots of the town. It is quite a party and the musicans keep it going until dawn. |
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Agiassos Photos
More on Agiassos from my book in Search of Sardeles Pastes |
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Agiassos
is 26 kilometers from Mytilini town on the
pine and olive covered slopes of Mount
Olympos. The amount of geenery here is
stunning. There are plentiful platanos, apple,
chestnut, pear and cherry trees as well as
varieties of other trees and shrubs. The town
itself is a completely traditional village of
narrow stone streets and picturesque lanes.
Many of the houses have projecting upper
floors known as
sachnisia
with
wooden balconies decorated with flower pots of
begonias, carnations, geraniums and other
ornamental plants. The industrious women of
Agiassos still spin and weave. For many years
the town was known for its pottery and this
tradition is carried on today. There is also a
high level of wood-carving. The craftsmen make
beautiful carved wooden icons and
furniture.
Agiassos
is the known throughout Greece for the church
to the Virgin Mary, the Panagia ti
Vrefokratousa in the center of town. It is
second only to the island of Tinos for
pilgrims who used to walk the old stone road
from Mytilini to pay tribute to the miracle
working icon, brought here from Jerusulem by
the imperial priest Agathon the Ephesian in
the year 803. In 1701 Agiassos, because of a
miracle by the Blessed Virgin who cured the
Turkish administrator of an illness was
absolved by Sultans decree of having to pay
taxes to the Ottoman government and many
people moved there until it was recinded in
1783. Pilgrims still come throughout the year
but especially on the eve of the feast day of
the Panagia (August 15th).
The
center of night activity revolves around the
many cafeneons that surround the church and
some others in the upper village. Men drink
ouzo and eat special meze dishes that are
cooked by the cafe proprietors. The village is
at a high enough altitude to be cool in the
hot summer months and once you get a feel for
life there you will never miss the
beach.
Since most of the
islands tourist activity takes place on the
beaches and the coastal towns, places like
Agiassos have maintained their traditions and
time spent here is similar to the way it would
have been 100 years ago.
In the lower part
of the village there are several restaurants
that cater to visitors, mostly Greeks who have
come to see the church and the icons. If you
are coming here by car it is recommended you
leave it here and walk up through the village
and avoid the stress of having to stop and go
on a ninety degree hill that makes San
Francisco look like the plains of Iowa.
Then walk up
through the village, see the church and find a
nice little cafe for a meal and a
drink.
There are plenty
and they are all great.
On
the road to Agiasou from Mytilini there is a
tiny settlement called Karini which should not
be missed. There are several cafeneons and a
very nice restaurant next to an amazing spring
that pours from the ground into a large pool
and then is channeled into a fast moving
stream that flows down the mountain to the
fields and villages below. The area is shaded
and cool, with ducks swimming in the spring
water. You can walk down the steps and cool
your feet in the torrent. On the other side of
the restaurant is a large platanos tree, one
of the biggest on the island. The hollow of
the tree is a room, and I was told is where
the artist Theophilos lived for a time.
If you are
traveling with children this is a great place
to stop and spend an hour or so since the
ducks, stream and tree will keep them
entertained. If you are on the island during
summer and need a break from the heat and have
had your fill of the sea then come up here and
bring a good book. You will discover that it's
better than an air-conditioned hotel
room.
