The hot springs of Lesvos have been well known since antiquity. They are ideally situated in areas that allow one to enjoy the peaceful surroundings, amazing scenery and the great relaxing and soothing experience. They also offer changing and shower facilities.

I am not really a therapeutic miracle waters type of person. At least I did not think of myself as one until one summer when I threw my back out of whack the second day after I arrived in Lesvos. I was climbing into my little rental car and felt a painful twinge like a charge of electricity. I knew at that moment if I did not get back to the house and into a bed I would have to be carried there in about 20 minutes when every muscle would tighten up in response to whatever act of treason my spine was committing. I spent the next two days in pain. It would take me five minutes to get fully to my feet and another twenty before I was walking fully upright instead of bent over like an old woman dressed in black. On the third day I took my wife's advice and slowly got dressed and made my way down to the car and somehow or another managed to squeeze myself in behind the wheel. I drove to the hot springs at Eftalou.

After unfolding myself out of the car I walked down the beach to the stone building that housed the baths but alas, it was closed. Even the ancient building next door which still houses the original baths had an iron padlocked gate. But having been here many times before I knew exactly what to do. I walked around the old stone building to the beach where I could see from the steam rising where the hot spring water was coming through the walls and into the sea. By taking stones and piling them in a semi-circle around me and digging away at the gravel and sand, I could contain this hot water in my very own healing spring. Within twenty minutes of laying in this mixture of fresh and sea water my back was fine. I was able to take a ten minute relaxing swim at the beautiful beach there, before continuing my treatment. I was cured. I did not have a problem with my back for the entire summer and usually when I have thrown out my back it can take a week to ten days before I am anywhere near normal.

Healing Springs of Lesvos: Polychnitou

Polichnitos has the hottest natural springs in all of Europe. The baths are 60 meters above the sea close to the banks of the Almyropotamos river. There are five mineral springs but only three are used, two by the municipality and one is privately owned. In the winter time you can see the springs from a distance because of the hot vapor rising from it. These springs are recommended for the cure of chronic rheumatism, arthritis, scropules, skin diseases, sciatica of the hip joint, myalgic pain, illnesses of the womb, lymphatisms and gynecological diseases in general. The entire area is alive with steaming streams of fantastic colors, boiling ponds and the stone ruins of old bath houses. The main bath house has two pools and the temperature is kept quite comfortable. The two pools are designated male and female but because we came as a family and there was nobody else there we were allowed to use one and bathe together. What could be finer then spend the morning in the baths and then have a nice seafood lunch at one of the inexpensive restaurants along the waterfront in Skala Polychnitos or Vatera? The baths also offer massage therapy, a cafe full of local natural foods and drinks. The baths are open all day until 8pm. If you only have time to visit one of the baths then this is the one to go to.

For more pictures and info click here

Nearby are the hot springs of Lisvori with therapeutic mineral bath installations on the banks of a torrent of water that flows into the bay of Kalloni. These healing waters are recommended for rheumatism, arthritis, sciatica, gynecological and dermatological ailments.

Healing Springs of Lesvos: Eftalou

At

Healing Springs of Lesvos: Skala Thermi

At Skala Thermi the historical baths have been in use since ancient times and was at one time the divine spring of the goddess Artemis. Recommended for rheumatism, arthritis, sciatica, neuralgia, kidney and gall gravel, gynecological complaints, hypertension, circulatory problems, liver diseases, lymphatism, spleen enlargement, cirrhosis, paralysis, periostitis, rachitis and hardening of the arteries. The mineral waters are also inhaled for chronic bronchial catarrh, catarrh of the pharynx and the eustachian tubes. The Grande old Hotel Starlitza which was the center of the community and had beautiful gardens has been deserted for years but plans for its restoration are under way. Behind the relatively new bath house are the ancient baths now closed to the public but worth a visit. Skala Thermi itself has many large cafes near the waterfront as well as two excellent fish tavernas right at the fishing boat docks.

Healing Springs of Lesvos: Thermi on Yera

The baths at

We stopped here on the way back from the airport one day when it was about 95 degrees out and the last thing in the world I wanted was a hot bath. But Andrea wanted one and thought it would be good for me as well. The procedure is very simple. You pay the man in the booth, take your towel and go into the men's or the women's baths. You strip naked and go through a metal door where you will find a big marble swimming pool that looks thousands of years old. The water is comfortably warm and you could easily spend a day paddling around or lounging on the ledges that line the pool. Without coming right out and saying it and perhaps offending some people, my first reaction was that if these baths were co-ed it would be like paradise (if you could lock the door). I don't know what it is about swimming around naked in a giant bathtub but its a very neat feeling, for me anyway. I recommend a cold shower after you finish, especially if it is hot. I was assuming that if I had emersed myself in hot water, that the air which was not as hot, would feel cooler. This was true for about 5 minutes and then I was desperate to throw myself in the cold sea.

Healing Springs of Lesvos: Karini

If you are planning to visit Lesvos with a focus on spending time in the healing baths then I recommend staying in Vatera and using the Polychnitou baths and doing day trips to visit the others. Another option is to stay in Molyvos or Eftalou so you can use those baths regularly and visit the others on day trips. If you are coming to Lesvos for the baths don't stay in Skala Eressos because it is far away from any of the hot springs.

For more information and more pictures there is a book The Sacred Waters by Jelly Hatzidimitriou available in most Lesvos bookstores and in Athens.

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