By Amarandi Barrett

If you have been to any small port city or large port town in Greece you may have noticed the odd neoclassical mansion. There are some places, like Galaxidi for instance, which have restored their mansions and have kept them in good condition. Other cities, like Gythion in the Peloponnesos, have not seen heavy investment in the upkeep of these old houses and they are in various states of disrepair. The building of these mansions throughout coastal Greek maritime centers was a result of economic prosperity, mostly due to shipping trade, which tapered out in the 20th century. As generations of Greeks began the slow—or not so slow— exodus out of smaller Greek towns and cities and into Athens, Thessaloniki, and other capitals of Europe, the USA, Australia and the wider world, these mansions emptied of inhabitants and began to deteriorate.

Mytilene is filled with these mansions, these elegant and impressive urban palaces. They were primarily built between 1850-1930 by merchants, landowners and maritime captains who were involved in trade between Mytilene and other maritime centers like Constantinople and Egypt. The style of the mansions is primarily neoclassical, with some gothic and baroque influence. You have often gazed longingly at these houses, which are for the most part well preserved, freshly painted, and occupied, to a larger extent than their counterparts elsewhere in Greece. If only I could go in there and take a little look around, you have thought to yourself. Perhaps you have gazed at a second story balcony, with its metal balustrade expertly curved into flowers and spirals, and longed to be invited inside. Well, I have good news for you.

StiLiana is a five-room luxury boutique mansion hotel. It is located in southern Mytilene, about a 15 minute walk from the main harbor. The mansion is on the main road which leads from the city to the nearby airport, and StiLiana looks out over the sea. It was built in 1896, by Panagiotis Vamvouris, who made his fortune in the trade of wheat. How you pine for the days a man's fortune could be made on wheat. Now wheat gives you stomach aches. The mansion has been passed down through generations and is now owned by Mister Vamvouris’ great-great grandson, Christos, who runs the hotel with his Greek-Australian wife, Liana.

Walking through the black wrought iron gates of StiLiana you are greeted by several overweight cats. They are obviously spoiled and they lounge in comfortable canvas chairs under a gorgeous two-story grapefruit-pink mansion. A Greek flag waves in the breeze from a second-story balcony. You step across the marble courtyard and up several steps between two white marble balustrades to enter through towering double doors. Inside you crane your neck up. Where is the ceiling? It is almost so high you cannot see. But wait— there. An angel floats, some forty feet above you. The ceiling is handpainted. By Michelangelo, perhaps? It looks like the sistine chapel. A crystal chandelier hangs below the angel. The floor is a rich brick red and is carpeted in fine Persian rugs and the wallpaper is gold flaked with endless florets.

Liana comes out of her office to greet you. She is beautiful and tan in a way only a Greek-Australian can be and she has a diamond stud in her nose. She has a Melbourne accent, which acts as an immediate cue to you that she is witty, interesting, and fun to drink with. Liana takes you from room to room downstairs, explaining the history of the mansion and how she and her husband, who grew up within its walls, came to turn it into a boutique hotel. You journey toward the back garden, where Liana’s pet cockatoo awaits. In Melbourne these birds sit on traffic lights and harass passers by. Here, the cockatoo only harasses Liana. To you, the humble cockatoo is nothing if not a birdly gentleman. But he throws a fit when Liana tells him the party is over and returns him to his spacious and elegant enclosure.

Liana takes you upstairs to your room. You have come to StiLiana with your two mushroom hunting Italian Hungarian friends, and you will be staying in the Blue Suite, which has both a double bed and a single. The walls are a luxurious teal, the floors antique oak, the rugs blue Persian, the furniture a deep chocolate, mahogany and walnut. It is opulent. The bed is comfortable. The air is filled with well working wi-fi. The bathroom is pristine, white marble, and you are realizing you have a thing for white marble. You have just arrived at the hotel after a traumatic visit to the Roman Aqueduct in the nearby town of Moria, in which you drove off of a small mountain in the rental car and then got so stuck between a rock wall and a cliff you had to make a 95-point turn to escape. Then, when you thought you were free of that cursed town, you had to reverse the car 600 meters up a narrow village road because a funeral procession was coming toward you in the other direction. The aqueduct had no wifi. The ground there was swarming with tiny weird frogs. The priest and the mourners were glaring at you. You needed this.

You and your two mushroom hunting companions have been sharing one iPhone charger for the last week. After combined attempts to find your way out of Moria you are all on 0%. You take turns plugging your phones into one of the Blue Suite’s outlets. You have developed a system— each phone is allowed to charge to 10% and then it is the next persons turn to charge their phone. Theoretically this system should only require a few rounds to get each phone up to a comfortable-leaving-the-hotel percentage. The problem is that when you receive your phone back you use 6% of your 10% catching up on the nothing that has occurred on social media since you last checked. Thus you end up in the hotel charging your phone for longer than you had anticipated. But this turns out to be a blessing in disguise. Next door to StiLiana is Kava Kelari, where you buy some delicious wine from Anemotia, a village on the western side of the island. You sit in the marble courtyard and enjoy your wine while fat cats purr in chairs nearby.

When you are all charged up and the wine is emptied from the bottle you walk into town. A cocktail at Cubano is followed by a cocktail at Flert. These cocktails have awakened your desire for an ouzo. You walk down the pedestrian street of Ermou, past small shops and cafes, and end up at the smaller harbor on the other side of Mytilene’s castle. There you sit at Refenes, where the handsome Moldovan waiter convinces you to drink the strongest ouzo they have— Spentza, 46%. You pair this with the freshest sardines you have eaten in Lesvos thus far. They are small. They are delicate. They taste like sushi but they cost a fraction of the price. You need three orders of them, immediately. You also need two more bottles of ouzo, please. It has gotten late. The waiters eyes are a deep blue and they remind you of the walls that await you in the Blue Suite. When you leave the restaurant it is 2 o'clock in the morning and you walk, slowly and leisurely, back to StiLiana, down quiet pedestrian streets and around the harbor with the twinkling lights of the city above you. It is a warm night and when you arrive back in the hotel room you kick on the AC. It works beautifully and it does not make any weird noises. This is a rare and beautiful thing in this country and you feel very lucky.

"WOW! Do yourself a favour and stay here. It’s not just a room, it’s an experience. Every now and then I find a gem. This is one of them. A grand mansion beautifully restored and maintained across the road from the sailing club cafe restaurant and a mini market next door. Short walk to town. Every detail was fitting, from the linen to the bed to the newly renovated facilities. Just WOW!"

"The property is beautifully designed, warm, stylish, and effortlessly cosy. Every detail makes it a perfect place to relax and unwind. Liana, the host, is wonderful — welcoming, thoughtful, and genuinely kind. It’s peaceful, ideally located, and the moment you step inside, it feels like the rest of the world just fades away."

"The atmosphere is amazing and the whole experience was unforgettable. The mansion, built in 1896 and just recently opened to guests, is so elegant and full of character. You really feel like a prince or princess in your own home. Lady Liana is the sweetest host and makes everything even more special. We absolutely loved our stay and can’t recommend it enough – if you come to Lesvos, staying here is a must!"

"I have been coming to this island for over 25 years and always admired this opulent neoclassical mansion as one of the finest homes on the island. The doors have been thrown open and you can now rent rooms with private en-suite accommodation. The property is within walking distance to Mitilini town. The views from the sweeping marble terrace and balconies will have you captivated where you can enjoy your morning breakfast which is included and unlimited self service coffee or tea. There is even Greek coffee you can brew. The rooms are grand, spacious and luxurious. Each room is unique. Crisp white sheets and fluffy towels and robes to wrap yourself in. Modern elegant bathrooms with rain showers where the water pressure won’t disappoint. Thoughtful amenities like shower caps, loofah mitts and even a bar fridge and safe in every room. Daily housekeeping is friendly and discrete. In all,a truly unforgettable experience."

For more information and booking use this form to contact StiLiana

You can also book StyLiana through Booking.com